Finding "The Triangle," A Culinary Haven

After leaving The Fearrington House in Pittsboro as a line cook, I was hardly ready to take the job as Sous Chef At Canoe Bay in Chetek, feeling that I had some how missed “The Basics”. After leaving Wisconsin, I decided to get back into a kitchen at an entry level in hopes of learning whatever it was I missed while up “In The Sticks.” At the end of a year and a half of working as the Sous Chef, I resigned and decided to go back and find what I felt I was missing. Once back in North Carolina, I sent a copy f my resume to every restaurant in the triangle (Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel Hill) in hopes of landing a job under a decent chef that would allow me to learn and grow. This proved to be a challenge, no one was hiring when I first got here. I found a night job working on the line in an very busy Italian Trattoria; that housed three hundred patrons on a slow weekend. I had to prove to myself that I could work on a fast paced line. Turns out that I could, I was soon working a pasta station on busy Saturdays getting beaten down by tickets and mad calls for plates. I felt unsatisfied, I was performing as I was asked to, but I never came into work before four p.m. I felt like I was being cheated, I was only ever finishing dishes, I never knew how they were started. Thus begun the great job hunt in the triangle, soon other establishments began calling about the resume that I had mass distributed months ago. I began meeting many Chefs in The Triangle that were dedicated to their craft, I was surprised to find the support that the culinary world had here.

This is the home, after all, to “The Foodiest Small Town In America.” - Bon Appetit Magazine

Moleskine: Cause I'm far too Posh for a Spiral!

A Moleskine notebook has been the ideal companion to artist, writers, and thinkers over the last couple of centuries. Being flexible and durable in all shapes and sizes, these little notebooks have be known to house notes, sketches, doodles, thoughts, ideas and dreams.

Since 1997 (Once these note books were introduced as the Moleskine Brand)the notebooks have been sold world wide to re-introduce the idea of a personal note. These petite, sentimental notebooks have been around for the past couple centuries having links to some well known people along the way; Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Picasso, and Vincent Van Gogh, are among those on the list. The notebook itself is nothing, yet when you begin to fill it with pieces of you and your ideas, it becomes priceless. You find your self described intimately on the pages as you read through your notes.

When I entered my first professional kitchen I was astonished to see that I was permitted to take notes. I also found that the notebook of choice was the coveted, Moleskine. I was given a pocket size version from a friend when I left culinary school so to link the world of school and the world I found at The Fearrington House I began to write in my gift everyday. Once I left The Fearrington House, my Moleskine was now seeping with knowledge and character. I retired my first notebook and began a new book once I took the job at Canoe Bay. Canoe Bay brought many surprises and one was my first Head Chef position. As Head Chef I felt it was my duty to teach someone something. I decided to do so in the form of a gift, I gave my first intern a tiny, black, pocket sized notebook, just like the one given to me before I left school. I now hope that he too will feel lost with out his little black book.

I now have several Moleskine Notebooks and each tells a different story. The only problem that I have been able to come up with is simply, I don't have enough pockets.

Umami, The Fifth Taste

Umami: Savoriness, (Translated from Japanese: "YUMMY") This has been proposed as the fifth taste that is detected by the human (and some animals) tongue.

The tongue has been thought to house four taste receptors that read a four different tastes. Sweet, Sour, Salty, and Bitter (Bitter being added by Greek philosopher, Democritus a couple of thousand years ago) were the four tastes and everything fell into one of these categories until a question was put forward by Auguste Escoffier. Yes, Escoffier, that late 18th century Chef found that he tasted something that didn't necessarily taste as if it fit into one of the categories that were already defined. This taste was Savory, Hearty, Rich... Escoffier's Question: What was This Taste? Escoffier Thought that he had captured the essence in his invention of veal stock, Yet he merely caught a glimpse and could never truly take credit for the discovery.

About a century earlier a gentlemen by the name of Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin had written a collection of pieces that he named "The Physiology Of Taste" and in the script he defines a concept that he named Osmazome. Osmazome is defined as, "the purely sapid portion of flesh soluble in cold water, and separated from the extractive portion which is only soluble in boiling water." (Insert from: The Physiology Of Taste). The definition in modern times is referring to making a very simple stock. The article goes on to describe Osmazome as "The most meritorious ingredient in all soups." Brillat-Savarin then goes on to pick and choose wich animals obtain this "Essence" and which do not: stating that animals with dark black and red hair are loaded with the stuff, and it is hardly every found in chicken, suckling pigs and so on. Although Umami is similar in the concept of Osmazome, Brillat-Savarin does not get the credit for this discovery simply because he didn't have a firm grasp on the understanding of the concept. But its not a total loss for Jean, He now has a cheese named in his honor, a marvelous Brie that captures the essence of Umami.

1908, Japan, A gentleman by the name of Kikunae Ikeda, decides that he really likes a bowl of Dashi... There's just something about it. Dashi is a traditional Japanese soup made with seaweed, which the Japanese had been using for years in the same way that Escoffier and Brillat-Savarin had been using stocks. Baffled by the presence of an unexplainable taste, Ikeda became determined in solving his mystery. Using resources and intelligence as a chemist, Ikeda began to define Umami as we know it today. Ikeda singled out monosodium glutamate as the sole reason for this unexplained taste, he the isolated and extracted the chemical and began distributing it around the world. Once Ikeda published his findings that discredited Plato and Aristotle (Who both knew of only four tastes) no one believed in his research. Yet to this day Monosodim Glutamate can be found as MSG.

In 2002, Scientists revisited the topic and in their research found that there indeed was a fifth taste receptor on your tongue that became aroused when you ate something that was amazingly yummy in a non salty, sweet, sour, or bitter way. Ikeda was right and in honor of his findings, this taste was now known as Umami (What he had referred to this taste as in a lab diary).

A List Of Umami Rich Foods:
- Beef
- Pork
- Tuna
- Anchovies
- Seaweed
- Oysters
- Prawns
- Truffles
- Cheeses
- Mushrooms
- Soy Beans
- Potatoes/ Sweet Potatoes
- Green Tea

The list could go on for days and since its arrival the culinary world has embraced it with open arms. Chefs have created menus to highlight the taste, we are now showcasing the taste as well as taking full advantage of the ability to properly identify that special little twinge on the back of your tongue when you have been truly satisfied and can simply utter the word... Umami!

Heat : Bill Buford

"The grill station is hell. You stand at it for five minutes and you think: So this is what Dante had in mind. It is in a dark, hot corner - hotter than any other spot in the kitchen; hotter than anywhere else in your life." - Bill Buford

This book is a MUST READ.

Buford paints a beautiful picture that leads you through his culinary journey and you can not help but get lost in his story. The book starts off as more of a narrative in the life of Super Chef, Mario Batali; leading through his accomplishments and downfalls. You see the relationships and milestones that Batali encounters on his own culinary expedition from his time in a kitchen at the Six Bells under the supervision of Marco Pierre White to the explosion of Molto Mario.
Eager to gain a better understanding of the professional kitchen (more so the people behind it) Buford rushes to follow in the path of Batali, starting at the beginning.

He takes the reader along as he meets with Marco Pierre White (Regarded as one of Britain's finest chefs, known world wide for his cooking and his foul-temper) and dines in fear. Buford creates an image of White being a passionate extremest with a notable knowledge and appreciation of French Cuisine. Creating a notion that White is somewhat a minimalist and purest when it comes to ingredients and preparation.

" Marco Continued. "And there are too many herbs. A bird can be ruined by herbs. You have to be careful . We're here to eat a fucking bird, are we not, Bill? Isn't that why we're here, to eat a fucking bird?" The waiters had been joined by a cook in a toque. Mario, meanwhile, was inching up to the edge of his chair, and his eyes were bulging again. "We're not here to eat a fucking herb garden. Would I have ordered grouse if I wanted to eat a salad? And the parsley. I mean - look at it. There's no fucking point, is there Bill?" His eyes were now darting round the room wildly. His eyes said: Some fucker was responsible for this, and I'm going to find out who."
(Insert From Pg#100)

Eagerly working through the ranks in the kitchen of Batali's award-winning restaurant, Babbo, Buford is soon led to a the small village in Italy, Porretta to learn the art of pasta making. In these pages he evokes childhood laughter as he writes about his trail and error lessons in the kitchen of the very hosts that taught pasta to Batali. Soon, Buford is rolling out pasta dough in Italy and learning the secrets of a little old Italian lady.

Soon after the return of his first "stint" in Italy, Buford is left hungry for more and finds himself at the mercy of "A Dante-Quoting Butcher In Tuscany." Still following The footsteps of the Batali family, Buford becomes an apprentice to Dario Cecchini (Thought of as the worlds finest Butcher, and the man that taught Armandino Batali (Mario's Father) his meats) in his Butcher Shop, The Macelleria in a hill town in Italy called Panzano. In these paragraphs you will find true passion, lust, disappointment, excitement, and... but of coarse, Sex.

Dario-""You are now a member of the carnal confederation of butchers. You are learning to work with meat like a butcher. You must now make love like a butcher. For the rest of the night, you must enact the dark acts of carnality, a butcher's carnality. And then you will rise in the hours before dawn, smelling of carnality, and unload the meat from the truck, like a butcher."
I didn't know what to say. My boss was telling me that, to do my job, I now needed to go home and have sex."
(Insert From Pg#249)

This book captures the true heart and soul behind any cook that longs for more. Seeping with culinary knowledge, I now find the pages to have scribbles and notes that I took while enjoying the read. I highly reccomend this book to any person who would like a quick look into the secret life of the kitchen.

Four Square Restaurant : Durham N. Carolina

Four Square Restaurant

Executive Chef / Owner: Shane Ingram

The Restaurant is set inside of an old fashioned Victorian styled house that was built in 1908. This is a multi-level property that has the ability to seat 115 people in its several dining rooms. The establishment is also home to a large full service bar, it also offers outside dining in the warmer summer nights. An earth-tone decor gives the guest a glimpse into the past at a working house set in the pre-depression era. Natural woodwork that lines the walls and the staircase is all original and adds to the luster of its beauty. Minimal changes have been made in the decoration with the original tiles and wood carved mirrored mantle pieces still in tact. The entire ambiance is created by a warm and comforting setting that invites you to get lost in the history behind the walls.

The night of 9.07.09: Reservation: 6pm.

We sit in the dining room awaiting the initial contact to be made with our waitress. We make conversation about the crack in the wall immediately to our left (It looks like rain damage). Contact is made and we are presented with an impressive wine list and the menu. I order a glass of Cabernet to start the night, my other half takes advantage of the bar and orders a Mojito (her drink of choice). The waitress leaves to collect our drinks and we peruse the menu. The menu is small, in a big way, a dish to represent many different proteins from pork and venison to quail, scallops, salmon and a local trout. A different cooking method for every dish, Pan-seared, Baked, Steamed, Braised, Grilled. Its a strong menu and I feel like no matter what I choose off the menu I will be fed well.

The first round of drinks arrive and I sit in silence wondering why I ordered the Cabernet. There was no specific reason for this action, Why did I start with a Cabernet? The truth is "Fear." The fear of being caught off guard I think. Normally I would have liked to start with a light Pinot Noir (Again for no better reason except I Love A Pinot Noir!) yet due to the fact that I was in a deep "intelligent" conversation about the Crack in the Wall, immediately to my left, when the waitress arrived, I was forced into an urgent response without proper consideration. I felt like a douche and asked to keep the booklet of wines throughout the meal; I was going to be ready next time.

We place our order, harder said than done. I wanted a little of everything, which led to me asking for a tasting menu, being a slower Monday it was, unfortunately, unavailable. So logically as the last possible option, we ordered far to much food. Our order is carried away and I continue my conversation; In no time I see the Head Chef walking towards our table carrying a small round plate that I assume to be an Amuse-Bouche (Google the meaning if you are lost at this point). Right I was, Chef Ingram introduced himself and presents our tiny starter; A cylindrical wrap stuffed with a slightly spicy sausage that was reminiscent of a Mexican Chorizo, with a cilantro oil. I must say it defiantly aroused my pallet. The oil was strong, in a great way tasting of pure cilantro with little detection of olive oil. We then received the House-made Charcuterie Plate, which housed a trio of aged, cured and smoked pork pieces that was topped with a lightly fried quail egg. it was worth the trip itself.

Soon the food begin to fill the table and wine was ordered accordingly. The evening began to manifest into a sick type of feeding frenzy where speech was outdated and grunts and nods became suffice. We ate grilled Portobello and Chestnut Pierogies followed by a Buttermilk Fried South Carolina Quail which led into Virgina Sea Scallops, pan seared, with a Lobster-Mascarpone Paella. Deep sighs of approval and content we being exchanged when everything came to a halt. I look across the table to see a Berkshire Pork Cheek Stroganoff, with an egg yolk ravioli, porcini mushrooms and balsamic cippollini onions. I see it, I get excited. I advance, fork in hand, I become incoherent and barbaric, slurping, licking, gnawing... the ravioli is cooked to perfection, only yielding enough to arouse my senses. The aroma coming off this plate takes me to a whole new place, where magic IS possible. I cant help but laugh, and giggle, I now understood the Crack in the Wall, directly to my left. it was there simply because it could be, It was about the food. My side-kick emerges from the pierogies in time to savor the last couple bites and she too slips into a bliss. This is the dish that I will remember for the rest of my life.

The meal ends silently, with a cheese course that is followed by a dessert. I remember a Roaring Forties Bleu Cheese and a Chocolate custard, my mind was still on the Pork Cheeks. I need a smoke and a napkin. I soon left with a smile.

I will search for a better dinner in Durham, but i am confident (not to mention completely satisfied) that I have found and experienced one of the finest.

A New Begining

I moved to North Carolina and have decided to start a blog about one of my lifetime passions. I have just left my job in Wisconsin as the Head Chef of the only Relais & Chateaux in the state. The property was gorgeous and the work environment was good, but it was missing something important, Great Food! So now I have decided to take this route in documenting what is the constant drive behind an ever growing passion.

I will include posts including the following:

1. Books (that have inspired me and are a must have.)
2. Restaurants (The Good, The Bad, and inevitably... The Ugly)
3. Work Experience (Stages included)
   
4. Great Chefs

I hope that this becomes an interactive blog and I invite the input of any person who cares to voice there opinion.