Four Square Restaurant
Executive Chef / Owner: Shane Ingram
The Restaurant is set inside of an old fashioned Victorian styled house that was built in 1908. This is a multi-level property that has the ability to seat 115 people in its several dining rooms. The establishment is also home to a large full service bar, it also offers outside dining in the warmer summer nights. An earth-tone decor gives the guest a glimpse into the past at a working house set in the pre-depression era. Natural woodwork that lines the walls and the staircase is all original and adds to the luster of its beauty. Minimal changes have been made in the decoration with the original tiles and wood carved mirrored mantle pieces still in tact. The entire ambiance is created by a warm and comforting setting that invites you to get lost in the history behind the walls.
The night of 9.07.09: Reservation: 6pm.
We sit in the dining room awaiting the initial contact to be made with our waitress. We make conversation about the crack in the wall immediately to our left (It looks like rain damage). Contact is made and we are presented with an impressive wine list and the menu. I order a glass of Cabernet to start the night, my other half takes advantage of the bar and orders a Mojito (her drink of choice). The waitress leaves to collect our drinks and we peruse the menu. The menu is small, in a big way, a dish to represent many different proteins from pork and venison to quail, scallops, salmon and a local trout. A different cooking method for every dish, Pan-seared, Baked, Steamed, Braised, Grilled. Its a strong menu and I feel like no matter what I choose off the menu I will be fed well.
The first round of drinks arrive and I sit in silence wondering why I ordered the Cabernet. There was no specific reason for this action, Why did I start with a Cabernet? The truth is "Fear." The fear of being caught off guard I think. Normally I would have liked to start with a light Pinot Noir (Again for no better reason except I Love A Pinot Noir!) yet due to the fact that I was in a deep "intelligent" conversation about the Crack in the Wall, immediately to my left, when the waitress arrived, I was forced into an urgent response without proper consideration. I felt like a douche and asked to keep the booklet of wines throughout the meal; I was going to be ready next time.
We place our order, harder said than done. I wanted a little of everything, which led to me asking for a tasting menu, being a slower Monday it was, unfortunately, unavailable. So logically as the last possible option, we ordered far to much food. Our order is carried away and I continue my conversation; In no time I see the Head Chef walking towards our table carrying a small round plate that I assume to be an Amuse-Bouche (Google the meaning if you are lost at this point). Right I was, Chef Ingram introduced himself and presents our tiny starter; A cylindrical wrap stuffed with a slightly spicy sausage that was reminiscent of a Mexican Chorizo, with a cilantro oil. I must say it defiantly aroused my pallet. The oil was strong, in a great way tasting of pure cilantro with little detection of olive oil. We then received the House-made Charcuterie Plate, which housed a trio of aged, cured and smoked pork pieces that was topped with a lightly fried quail egg. it was worth the trip itself.
Soon the food begin to fill the table and wine was ordered accordingly. The evening began to manifest into a sick type of feeding frenzy where speech was outdated and grunts and nods became suffice. We ate grilled Portobello and Chestnut Pierogies followed by a Buttermilk Fried South Carolina Quail which led into Virgina Sea Scallops, pan seared, with a Lobster-Mascarpone Paella. Deep sighs of approval and content we being exchanged when everything came to a halt. I look across the table to see a Berkshire Pork Cheek Stroganoff, with an egg yolk ravioli, porcini mushrooms and balsamic cippollini onions. I see it, I get excited. I advance, fork in hand, I become incoherent and barbaric, slurping, licking, gnawing... the ravioli is cooked to perfection, only yielding enough to arouse my senses. The aroma coming off this plate takes me to a whole new place, where magic IS possible. I cant help but laugh, and giggle, I now understood the Crack in the Wall, directly to my left. it was there simply because it could be, It was about the food. My side-kick emerges from the pierogies in time to savor the last couple bites and she too slips into a bliss. This is the dish that I will remember for the rest of my life.
The meal ends silently, with a cheese course that is followed by a dessert. I remember a Roaring Forties Bleu Cheese and a Chocolate custard, my mind was still on the Pork Cheeks. I need a smoke and a napkin. I soon left with a smile.
I will search for a better dinner in Durham, but i am confident (not to mention completely satisfied) that I have found and experienced one of the finest.
i like it
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